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Choosing a Brilliant Cut Diamond
Diamonds have always been coveted gems around the world, symbolizing purity and eternity. It was in 1477, with Mary of Burgundy, that the diamond engagement ring gained popularity, becoming the gemstone of choice for engagement rings.
However, it is entirely possible to choose another precious stone such as sapphire, ruby, emerald, or even tourmaline.
We will therefore first help you understand how to choose a diamond and its cut.
Cut, one of the main elements in choosing a diamond
Once the stone is chosen based on its weight (carat) and purity, the cut – the cut of the 4Cs – will be one of the main criteria because in jewelry it determines the shape of the stone and therefore its brilliance.
There are several cuts (round, princess, oval, baguette, pear...), the quality of the latter, whatever the chosen shape, greatly affects its brilliance. This information is not neutral: we love diamonds because they sparkle.
The most commonly used diamond is the round brilliant cut diamond (Full Cut)
It is composed of 57 facets. It is the most common and popular on the market, but above all the most accomplished of all diamond shapes: it maximizes the brilliance of the stone through its proportions, symmetry, and polish.
It is the result of extensive research: diamond cutters have optimized the brilliance of the stone by adjusting the cut through mathematical calculations and advanced scientific theories on light reflection.
Its origin dates back to the mid-17th century, when diamond cutters began to use more refined and complex methods. The first were known as Mazarin, named after its creator: Cardinal Mazarin, who in 1650 created the first cross-cut diamond.
Through a series of transformations and gradual development during the 18th century, Mazarin diamonds gave rise to the Portuguese Peruzzi "Old mine" or "old European cut" from the 1700s. It was not until 1919 that the modern "round brilliant" as we know it, was created. Its creator Marcel Tolkowsky was a Russian mathematician with a passion for diamonds. Tolkowsky's work in 1919 established the basis for the ideal proportions of the round diamond.
There are two ways of cutting within the brilliant cut:
- The so-called old cut:
It gives the diamond a baroque style composed of 57 to 58 facets, a very high crown, and an open culet. They were mostly adapted to the shape of their original rough state to minimize material loss, which is why some old cuts are closer to the cushion cut than to the round.
- The so-called modern cut (used at Héloïse & Abélard):
This so-called perfect cut was finalized in the 1960s, after numerous calculations. The objective of this new method is to achieve the greatest brilliance. The modern brilliant cut enhances the sparkle and clarity of the diamond.
The Pear cut, teardrop, or pendeloque
It combines a brilliant and marquise cut to achieve a total of commonly 56 facets: 33 facets for the upper part and 23 for the lower part.
There are wider or longer ones depending on taste; the most important for a beautiful stone being to have symmetrical sides.
Its origin dates back to the 15th century with the "Briolette". It was not until the 1900s that the pear shape we know today appeared: only the top of the stone is domed, to optimize light reflection for the eye and thus obtain better brilliance.
This method requires excellent expertise to avoid what is called the "bow tie effect": the appearance of shadow zones that can resemble a bow tie in the center of the stone.
To avoid this shadow zone, the lapidary must respect a very precise facet inclination.
The Baguette and Trapezoid cut
It gives a long, rectangular shape and has 14 facets.
Dating back to the 15th or 16th century, it owes its name to the French word "bague" (ring), but also refers to the elongated shape of a baguette bread. It quickly became adored by royal houses for crowns and royal jewelry, and became very popular during the Art Deco period.
The diamond has a trapezoidal shape, meaning a kind of rectangle with one end narrower than the other. To differentiate them... it's very simple! Only the baguette diamond is a perfect rectangle. They should also not be confused with an emerald shape, which is less elongated, wider, and has more facets.
Diamonds of this style have been found since the Renaissance, but they were particularly used in the 1920s, the Art Deco period, and during the Cubist movement. Today, they are found on many engagement rings or in pavé settings.
The "Eight-eight" or "Single cut"
As its name suggests, it is composed of a table (the highest part of the diamond), 8 facets on the upper part (the crown) and 8 on the lower part (the pavilion), making a total of 16 facets. It is mainly used for small stones.
